The thing that annoys me the most is the reluctance of one of the burners to light properly/stay lit for the first couple seconds. Everything the OP said is true of my forge to. If someone asked me If I liked the forge my answer would still be a yes. I am also a relative beginner, and, as far as gassers go, I have only used diamondbacks, so take this with a bottle of salt. Overall it works okay, but the inability to put anything more than a feeble layer of refractory over the door insulation is a major bummer. There is no provision for adjusting the ratio of air to fuel, but the scale didn't seem to be excessive. I haven't bothered with forge welding yet, but I think it would take at least 15 psi to get there. I think some anti seize is necessary for long-term use, but even then it seems unlikely that the steel will survive several liner replacements. The ceramic brick on the top of the forge is held in place with a thin strip of steel which is has already scaled away to nothing in places, and of the three screws that secure the top of the shell, one sheared off when I attempted to remove them. The use of screws to secure the wool is mostly ineffective. If the steel door shell had just another 1/4" of flange, there would be plenty of room for a proper durable layer of refractory. If you drop the door from an open position even once, the clay cracks and soon crumbles. At best a layer about 1/8" thick is possible before the door won't seal against the forge. This is apparent from looking at the photos on the website, but in practice it is awkward and frustrating.Īll three doors are insulated with ceramic wool, but there is no room left to seal the face with satanite or other refractory. The 3 doors cannot be opened simultaneously to heat large work without tying back the doors with wire.
I've tried starting at pressures from 5-10 psi on the regulator, but the problem remains intermittent. About every other time I start up the forge, one burner loses it's laminar flow, and the flame gets shorter and starts burning up inside the tube a little bit, with a noticeable decrease in efficiency. There is still some root of the thread left, not that it makes much difference, but it's hardly a well constructed venturi. The "smooth bore burner bells" are simply pipe reducers with the threads mostly machined off. There are some design shortcomings that render it more of a forge for the amateur /hobbyist than a forge to make money with. It is the first and only forge I have used, so take my beginner's opinion for what it's worth.
I purchased a Metalsmith model from Diamondback forge last year (the one with 3 doors) and have put about 400# of propane through it.
0 kommentar(er)
